Links in text: Le Beccherie; Osteria della Gigia; Le Pervinche; Antica Trattoria al Molinetto; Toffoli; Antica Trattoria Al Forno; Trattoria Argentina; Vigne Matte; Col Vetoraz; L'Osteria senz'Oste; Bar Alpino; Nino Franco; Adriatico 2
In this blog I’ll present Two Day trip, which is beside idyllic nature also an exceptional culinary destination. Driving from Ljubljana (Slovenia) takes less than two and a half hours. This trip is also suitable for children, if they share your culinary curiosity, otherwise it’s better to go on this getaway with your partner.
Treviso
Treviso is typical Italian town where you can admire architecture, enjoy the city events, sit by the water and observe endless Pastry shops, where dominates one of the most famous desserts of our time - Tiramisu.
We all know the Treviso radicchio, sparkling Prosecco, but it’s not commonly known that Treviso is also home of Tiramisu. This dessert first appeared on the menu at the local restaurant Le Beccherie, but that is one of the theories. Italians can tell, that Tiramisu was created a long time ago as a result of long Italian family dinners, when already tired eaters tried to stay awake by dipping the biscuits into coffee and adding cream.
This area of Veneto is economically developed, as there are several Italian fashion groups with headquarters in Treviso, such as Benetton, Geox, Stefanel, Sisley, ... Enjoy your Tiramisu here, but Treviso is also a city with many little Bars offering incredibly delicious local snack with drinks. It's quite crowded and sometimes you need to wait a bit, since it's not easy to prepare food as fast as it goes. One of these numerous Bars is also Osteria della Gigia in the city center. It’s very interesting little place with excellent and affordable local food and beverages.
Conegliano - Valdobbiadene
On the regional road we drive from Treviso to Prosecco DOCG area, which is spread from Conegliano - Valdobbidene. Those are small towns with calm living, local events and a lot of tourists looking for wine cellars for tasting and buying Prosecco. Nature is idyllic in this area, especially in summer, when everything is green. The place is suitable for recreational cycling, hiking, from local train station you can go on one day trip to Venice, the whole area is meant for enjoying in nature and food. That's how I imagine my Zen. I will not write about the sparkling wine Prosecco, a detailed description of this wine is in this blog, but I will highlight a couple of wine cellars worth visiting.
Refrontolo
You can buy an excellent Prosecco from the owner of the Le Pervinche facility, where it’s also recommendable to book a room. It’s difficult to find more beautifully arranged estate, and Mr. Francesco is extremely helpful, friendly and hospitable. He will be pleased to provide you with information about the area and the wine cellars to visit. Francesco is also a perfectionist, which is reflected in his Prosecco wine - it’s simply gorgeous!
We usually book the room through booking.com, the price of a double room with breakfast is 80,00 €. The location of the building is in town Refrontolo, on the wine route between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, but it has another significant advantage, just across the road is a restaurant of local specialties, which will pleasantly surprise you. The name of the restaurant is Antica Trattoria al Molinetto.
It’s an excellent local cuisine, where guests are mostly locals, prices are very affordable, dinner with three course menu for two people, with coffee and wine is app. 45,00 €. You need to try their homemade appetizers (antipasti), continue with pasta (many options, mostly with seasonal ingredients) and meat, food goes perfectly with local Prosecco. A reservation is mandatory, because the restaurant is always full, but you can ask Francesco to book a table for you, he does that with pleasure. The restaurant is across the road of Le Pervinche accommodation, so you can relax and enjoy your dinner and wine.
If you haven’t visited any wine cellar yet, you’ll have a busy second day, so it’s crucial to arrange a bit those visits. On the first day, in Refrontolo, when you try Francesco’s Prosecco, you can visit Toffoli wine cellar. It’s not far away, but I recommend using the Google Maps application. You can taste wine there, buy 6 bottles in a box. It’s not necessary that all the wines in the box are the same as they can be packed according to your wishes. The price of first-class Prosecco DOCG is approx. 7 € per bottle and prices are mostly the same also in other cellars in this area, but the price can go up, especially in the Cartizze area, which is a "Grand Cru" of Prosecco.
Wine route Refrontolo – Valdobbiadene
On the second day, take time for breakfast, because it's relaxing and pleasant in Le Pervinche garden. In Refrontolo, there are two more Trattorias worth visiting before going back home. These are Antica Trattoria Al Forno, a little more sophisticated version of the Trattoria where you had dinner (for two people app. 70,00 €) or Trattoria Argentina, which I recommend to all meat lovers (for two people, about 90,00 €). After this experience, you will look at the meat differently, you will be grateful to chef, what I can’t say for many other Argentinean restaurants. They really mastered in meat preparation! Don’t forget to book a table and check opening hours, because eating facilities in Italy are open only for lunch and dinner, they are closed in between. [endif]
After breakfast we drive to the old Watermill named Molinetto della Croda, located along the wine route. It's nice to see and to take some pictures.
Wine cellar Vigne Matte is the first on the way to Valdobbiadene to be visited. The property is very nice, their Prosecco is approximately 8 € per bottle, while their main market are restaurants in Switzerland. The road is idyllic and there are many opportunities for nice pictures.
The next cellar is already in the Valdobbiadene area and it’s called Col Vetoraz. The bottle of their Prosecco is approx. 9 €. As we are closer to Valdobbiadene, more expensive Prosecco is, since this area is known to be the best for cultivating wine grape Glera. This is also the area of Prosecco Cartizze, since Col Vetoraz is a property overlooking the valley of the Cartizze vineyards, where they produce the best and the most expensive Prosecco wines. In their tasting room, you can try Prosecco Cartizze, and if you like it, a bottle costs app. € 18. This special wine tasting is payable, but if you like to taste other regular Prosecco is free of charge.
Near this property, you can also find famous self-service house called L'Osteria senz'Oste, where you can serve yourself with bread, salami, cheese, ... and the payment is based on honesty and your judgment, you pay as much as you think is appropriate. I believe that this house once served its purpose, but now it's too crowded, it's interesting to see, but I wouldn’t recommend eating there.
In addition to this self-service house is a little hike path leading to the self-service Prosecco machine. You pay the amount needed and it throws out the Prosecco bottle. Take a sandwich with you (this area has excellent cheeses) and from the top it’s a wonderful view of Prosecco Hills. There are also some tables and chairs, it’s a unique place for a snack.
The road downhill lead us to Valdobbiadene, the capital of Prosecco DOCG. Bar Alpino is located in the center with excellent snacks and plenty of Prosecco, but most memorable is friendliness and hospitality of local people.
There are many wine cellars in Valdobbiadene area, but you can visit the cellar Nino Franco, which has a sophisticated version of Prosecco. After all, it's probably time for dinner and not lunch, but it's worth going back to Refrontolo to Trattoria Argentina. Drive to Ljubljana on the motorway takes app. 2 hours, without any stops at shoppnig centers along the road, such as Adriatico 2 in Portogruaro, which is really hard for me!